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Berdoo Canyon Road – Joshua Tree

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GPS N33 54.62  W116  03.40
Elevation 900-4,400 ft
Season Year round: best Oct.-May
Terrain Packed dirt, deep sand in places, washboard: flash floods are a possibility
Difficulty Easy: The last part of the trail is moderate.  Check with the visitor center  for latest conditions as flash flooding is a possibility and dramatically changes road conditions.
Required Vehicle 4WD high clearance SUVs
Time 2 hours
Length 14.9 miles
Deep into Berdoo Canyon Joshua Tree
Deep into Berdoo Canyon

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Sandy Trail to Geology Tour Road

Directions: From Interstate 10 N of Palm Springs, take Hwy 62 north then east about 43 miles to Twentynine Palms.  Follow signs to the Oasis Visitor Center.  Go south into the park through the North Entrance Station.  Follow the signs to Jumbo Rocks Campground then go another 1.6 miles west.  Turn left at the marker for Geology Tour road.

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Leaving washed out road Berdoo Canyon

Site Location and Description:  Berdoo Canyon Trail connects Geology Tour Road to Dillon Road.  It begins at the one-way loop on Geology Tour Road.  Berdoo takes you toward the San Bernardino Mountains and ascends into Berdoo Canyon.  This slope can be the moderately difficult portion of the trail as it is easy affected by rains and contains some deep ruts and uneven, loose, sandy areas.  The trail mostly follows a wash once in the canyon.  This is a striking and remote area with high canyon walls and sparse vegitation.  The trail then winds through a remote and serenely beautiful mountain area.  The lower end of the trail takes you past the site of Berdoo Camp, part of the Colorado River Aqueduct construction project (more info below).  Here you see the  concrete ruins of the camp walls above the canyon then drive on to an old paved road that used to serve the camp leading out of Berdoo Canyon.  TAP Note:  There is no camping allowed anywhere in Joshua Tree National Park outside of the developed campgrounds.  It is also prohibited to remove anything from the park.

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Exposed boulders Berdoo Canyon

History of Berdoo Canyon Trail:  The name Berdoo is a nickname for San Bernardino.  The Berdoo camp was set up because it was located in an area that had water.  It is close to the mouth of the canyon and opens up to the Coachella Valley.  The camp was part of the Colorado River Aqueduct construction project which carries water from Parker Dam in AZ to Los Angeles.  It was constructied in 1932.  The Berdoo camp was one of four headquarters for construction crews built along the aqueduct route.  They built the tunnel section under the Little San Bernardino Mountains and the area is known as the East Coachella Tunnel Division.  These tunnels stretched over 18 miles. The section under camp Berdoo was 2,000 ft under ground and 5 miles long.  Workers lived in dorms at the camp.  There was a hospital, mess hall and store on site.  Construction was completed in 1939.  What remains of the camp today is the flat pad area that once was the center of activity for the workers and some concrete walls.  This aqueduct made it possible for the fruit-growing industry to develop in the Coachella Valley in the 1940s. Skye Valley (NW of the trail)and a few other settlements got their start as a result of the construction project and Dillon Road (west end of trail) was built to establish access to the area for the workers.

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Climbing out of Berdoo Canyon

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Geology Tour Road – Joshua Tree National Park

Geology Tour Road, joshua Tree national park, Joshua tREE np, OVERLAND TRAILS, overlanding trails, california overland trails, over land, off-road, off-roading, off road trails, vehicle supported adventure, adventure,
GPS N33 49.84  W116 08.25
Elevation 3.300-4.600 ft
Season Year round: best Oct.-May
Terrain Packed dirt, deep sand in places
Difficulty Easy to moderate: soft sand and steep, rockier terrain can be a challenge
Required Vehicle 2WD vehicles until Squaw Tank; marker #9 then 4WD recommended
Time 2 hours
Length 11.5 miles
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Start of Geology Tour road East

Directions to geology Tour Road: From Park Boulevard (Loop Road) go 1.6 miles west of Jumbo Rocks to Trail marker

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Heading north on trial

Site Location and Description:  This is a scenic tour overland route. You can pick up a trail guide at the trailhead. It’s a fascinating geological and anthropological area that contains evidence of inhabitation dating back to 9000 B.C.  You will see  some spectacular rock formations that are so iconically “Joshua Tree National Park”, in their “modern art” look. The Tour map has a description of each of the 16 stops along the route with a warning to stop at #9, Squaw Tank if the weather is wet.  Our suggestion is that you do not go any further unless you have 4WD. You will then be entering Pleasant Valley and the terrain gets rougher. At stop #10, which can be hard to find, but the GPS coordinates are N33 55.65  W116 04.56,  you will find petroglyphs on the rocks to the left. Toward the end of the trail (marker #16) you will come to a stunning panoramic view.

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Backcountry view: Geology Tour Road

History of Geology Tour Road: Along this route, anthropologists have found crafted projectiles used for hunting dating back to 9000 B.C.  More recent evidence of population in this area by the Serrano, Chemehuevi, Cahuilla peoples can be seen in their pictographs, petroglyphs and mortar (grinding “bowls” carved out of  rock) work areas.  Squaw tank (#9) shows the visitor evidence of these grinding holes.  Further down at stop #10 you can see some petroglyphs and Native American rock carvings.

In 1772 Pedro Fages, commander of the Spanish forces explored this area, making him the first documented European to travel this region.  In 1865 gold prospectors were coming to the area and Rattlesnake Canyon, approximately 6 miles north of Geology Tour Road was the site of the first claim.  Over the next 50 years, miners flocked to the area establishing the towns of Dale and New Dale. You can see the remnants of some of these mining activities at the base of the Hexie Mountains (stop #12).  The Ryan Mountains,  just west of this trail got their name from a particularly successful mine that closed in the early 1900’s after producing gold valued at over $300,000.

In the 1880’s cattle grazing was brought to this region and continued into the 1940’s.  Bill Key’s,  an iconic historical figure of Joshua Tree National Park, put his stamp on the area as well.  He was a Russian immigrant turned miner, cowboy then a sherif and worked hard from 1910 until his death in 1969 developing his ranch that’s located just north of this trail.  He also owned and operated the Hidden Gold Mine.  His property, Desert Queen Ranch, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  You can make reservations for a tour (760)-367-5500.

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Boulder formations on Geology Tour Road

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Black Eagle Mine Road – Joshua Tree National Park

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GPS N 33 49.68   W115 45.50
Elevation 1,300-2,500 ft
Season Year round: best Oct.-May
Terrain Graded, sand washes, imbedded rocks
Difficulty easy to moderate: sections could be difficult after storms
Required Vehicle  High Clearance 4 wheel drive.
Time 2.5 hours out and back
Length 16.5 miles

Directions: Black Eagle Mine Road begins at the 6.5 miles north of Cottonwood Visitor Center (same trailhead as Old Dale Road)

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Moderate terrain Black Eagle Mine Trail

Site Location and Description:  Black Eagle Mine road runs along the edge of Pinto Basin, crosses several dry washes, and winds through canyons in the Eagle Mountains. The first nine miles are in the park. Beyond that point, the overland trail is on  Bureau of Land Management land. The road stopped for us when we ran into a large boulder in the middle of the off-road trail. Several old mines are located around the road.

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Whoops on black eagle trail

The History of Black Eagle Mine Road:  This trail passes by Barry Storm’s Jade Mine, the Black Eagle Gold Mine and Kaiser’s Eagle Mountain Mine as well as other old abandoned gold mines.
Barry Storm stumbled across a large jade deposit and mined it from 1956 to 1967.  The biggest piece of jade that his mines produced weighed 450 pounds.  He broke it up and sold it in the Twenty-Nine Palms area.  The Black Eagle mine produced over 1,000 tons of ore generating approximately $30,000 between 1923 and 1928. Water for the camp was brought in from Cottonwood Springs.  A mill was constructed in the late 1920’s but was unsustainable and both the mine and the mill had to be shut down sometime in the early 1940’s.  Between 1935 and 1940, ore production generated approximately $200,000.  In 1939 a concentration and flotation plant was installed and operated from 1939 to 1940.  It yealded over $53,000 in concentrates.

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Black Eagle Trail-Joshua Tree National Park and Beurea of Land Management

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Arroyo Seco del Diablo and Diablo Drop off

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GPS N32 52 56.9   W116 09 30′
Elevation 600 ft. to 1,100 ft.
Season Year round: best Oct.-May
Terrain Packed dirt, deep sand in places, washboard, possible sandstone/ rock slides , narrow in places: flash floods are a possibility
Difficulty Easy to moderate terrain on Arroyo Seco – conditions change frequently due to weather conditions.  Diablo Drop off is rated challenging. June 2015 it was moderate
Required Vehicle High clearance 4WD, air down
Time 1 hour 1 way
Length 8.2 miles one way

Directions:  We came into Arroyo Seco Del Diablo via Canyon Sin Nombre (off the S2 between Sweeny Pass and the Carrizo Badlands Overlook, approximately 13 miles NW of Ocotillo) then veered north at the above coordinates.

Site Location and Description:  Most of Arroyo Seco del Diablo twists and winds through sandstone canyon and an off-road sandy wash in Anza Borrego State Park.  The sandstone walls of the canyon are geographically amazing in their formations.  Be aware that the nature of sandstone can be fragile and we encountered quite a few wall collapses that we had to drive over.  Nothing too challenging, but worth mentioning.  At approximately 6 miles you arrive at the top of Vallecito Canyon on Middle Mesa and you turn left at the Diablo Drop Off sign.

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Trail marker for Diablo Drop off

The view from the top of Diablo is amazing, you can see the Fish Creek area and the Vallecito Mountains.  There are two off-road “drops” at Diablo.  The first is a semi-steep, very sandy hill which is not difficult to descend (we went down in low gear…yes, safe and slow).  Rumor has it that you do not want to attempt going back up…SO, you need to be willing to make the second descent called “Broken Shaft” Gultch which has been rated challenging and which we were warned about by the park ranger as being washed out though passible with our rigs.  Here you enter a narrow slot and pass over some ledges, ruts and rocks. While these have been written up as treacherous, we found that the recent rains had actually filled in some of the deeper ruts and padded the ledges.  DO NOT take this review of the second part of the drop as “set in stone” (ha…)  because conditions change frequently and the ruts and ledges can be deep requiring careful wheel placement. For current road conditions call: 760-767-4205

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Top of Diablo Drop Off

History of Arroyo Seco del Diablo:  The name Arroyo Seco del Diablo means the Devil’s dry wash and is located in the Carrizo Badlands formed out of water flowing from the ancient Colorado River cutting through the sandstone and rock concretions along it’s way to the Gulf of California. (Concretions are basically cemented bodies of sediment particles embedded into rock or sandstone..usually round or disk shaped.)  The concretions that were carried downstream helped to form the deep-sided canyon walls of Arroyo Seco del Diablo.  Diablo Drop Off sits on a mesa (spanish for table) above the paths carved by the massive floodwaters millions of years ago.

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Canyon Sin Nombre – Anza Borrego

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GPS N32 49.799 W116 10.211
Elevation 526 ft. to 1,210 ft.
Season Year round: best Oct.-May
Terrain Packed dirt, deep sand in places, washboard: flash floods are a possibility
Difficulty Easy terrain/soft sand can be a challenge
Required Vehicle  4 wheel drive. With stock tires it’s better to air down a bit in the soft sand.
Time 2.5 hours each way
Length Approximately 23 miles exiting at Fish Creek Wash

Directions: The Canyon Sin Nombre trail starts from Highway S2 between Sweeney Pass and the Carrizo Badlands Overlook and is about 13 miles NW of Ocotillo CA.

Site Location and Description: Canyon Sin Nombre is a beautiful and picturesque overland trail in Anza Borrego State Park that winds through an ancient sandstone and granite canyon that has amazing rock “folds” and curves. This sandstone contains elements and fossils that are over 100 million years old from when the ancient Colorado River flowed through this area. There is a slot canyon suitable for hiking at about 2 miles into the canyon. After that, you will enter into some wide, sandy off-road washes, once part of the historic Butterfield Stage Route.  The rest of the journey takes you through Arroyo Seco Del Diablo and up to the lookout above Diablo Drop off, then winds down the potentially difficult “Broken Shaft” Gulch and into Fish Creek Wash.

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Trail marker-Canyon Sin Nombre

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Wide open wash at Canyon Sin Nombre

We travelled here in June, so we  did not get out of our vehicles for any great length of time. It was 109 degrees out; brutally hot.  The park ranger at the trailhead warned us that we would be running into a search and rescue crew, as a hiker had to be taken out of the slot canyon and was in bad shape due to exposure.  TAP NOTE: If you venture out here in the summer/early fall months, be sure you are carrying a well-stocked first aid kit, gallons of water, sunscreen, hats, and extra food (at minimum). Traveling with a minimum of two vehicles is recommended and be sure that your air conditioner is up to par as you will HAVE TO HAVE IT.  We also carry a DeLorme inReach satellite communicator that has 100% global coverage for sending and tracking e-mails, so that you can update your friends/loved ones while out exploring.  It also enables you to send an SOS in case of emergency and receive a delivery confirmation, as well as giving you the ability to be in contact with the search and rescue monitoring center until help arrives. Always be prepared.

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Flash flood evidence- Canyon Sin Nombre

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Mortero Wash – Anza Borrego Desert Park

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GPS N32 47 34.1 W116 06 24.6
Elevation 820 ft. to 1,928 ft.
Season Year round: best Oct.-May
Terrain Packed dirt, deep sand in places, washboard, a  small rocky, hill climb
Difficulty Moderate due to one rocky hill.
Required Vehicle Stock 4WD. Air down for soft sand.
Time 2 hours
Length approximately 17 miles
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Beautiful backcountry along Mortero Wash Trail

Directions to Mortero Wash: Turn south off the S2 close to the 56 mile post.  Mortero Wash is clearly signposted (as seen below).  You will be approximately 8 miles northwest of Ocotillo at interstate 8.

Site Location and Description: Mortero Wash is a remote overlanding spot located in Anza Borrego State Park. It is both beautiful, stark and historically significant.  Driving into the off-road wash you are surrounded by Ocotillos and various other sorts of desert vegetation.  As you drive on, you will get to sandy washes and a couple of rocky spots.

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Rocky section along Mortero Wash

After a couple of miles, you will see the water tower in the distance, bear left to the tower when the road forks at 4.1 miles.  Drive over and along the tracks, up to the railroad platform…it’s good fun exploring the area. You can follow the tracks heading west and you will come to a sandy wash bisected by an old trestle.

Because we came out here in June (read: 109 degrees), we did not take advantage of the wonderful hiking this area has to offer.  Indian Hill, one of the oldest Native American campsites in Anza Borrego State Park is here.  See details of the hike in Afoot and Afield in San Diego County by Jerry Schad. There is also a short hike to an old railroad tunnel.

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Water Tower and old rail road tracks at Mortero Wash

The History of Mortero Wash: The railroad here was called “The Impossible Railroad”.  The San Diego & Imperial Valley Rail Road took 12 years to build and crosses an 11-mile stretch of the Carrizo Gorge, a brutally hot, harsh, although beautiful environment (that we can attest to with our June trip!).  Twenty-one tunnels and fourteen trestles were built in this area.  The rail road opened in 1919 and operated for over 50 years.  The tracks are still in good shape.  It is illegal to hike along them, although they are used by illegal immigrants as an escape route from Mexico.  Check our trip blog post, Anza Borrego State Park-Smokin’ Hot Week-End Adventure.

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